Random Chianti Moments-June 5

Cecilia’s big smile and gentle greeting at the bus stop.

The first sip of wine as we looked over the valley upon arrival at the villa.

Rocky and Luna (Cecilia’s dogs) in search for some attention (countless moments).

The warm, early morning walk from the villa to the bus stop along the winding, dusty road en route to Florence to pick up the car…felt like Michael Corleone on his Italian pilgrimage morphed with the memory of hitchhiking in Chili (see “Chili with Staggering Velocity!”).

Our conversation and tasting with Alfredo Correani and his wife at Lorenzo’s (named after Alfredo's son), a tiny vineyard just down the road. Alfredo paints all of the wine bottle labels and had just finished painting a wall inside the cellar when we arrived. He spoke broken English, we spoke no Italian, but between the non-verbals and a little Spanish, we had one of the most sincere and cheerful conversations in recent memory…he jubilantly told us about his upcoming exhibit in Florence. Bought a bottle of Chianti Classico and a small bottle of fresh olive oil.

Serving ourselves at Le Cantine…tried our first Brunello.

Early afternoon plucking of cherries.

Curl up in the hammock, cocoon style.

Early morning breakfast in the small courtyard outside our door…fresh fruit, pastries, jam, yogurt, strong Italian coffee and the creamiest butter we’ve ever had.

Our sserendipitous tasting at Pian del Gallo, an organic vineyard and farm on the outskirts of Greve en Chianti. It was pouring rain and near the end of the day. After a short, bumpy ride, we scampered to the front entrance. “Closed.” We then knocked on the door of the residence…waited and headed back to the car. Just before driving off, Hector, the owner comes out with umbrella in hand and welcomes us in. He then spends the next 60 minutes sharing his family’s food, wine and stories. By far, the most genuine, passionate and interesting wine tasting experience we’ve ever had. As soon as he saw our interest in wine and organic farming, he lit up and gave impassioned and descriptive responses to our rapid-fire questions…His homemade sundried tomatoes were unbelievable. We tried 5 wines and their 25 year balsamic vinegar. Their 2008 Super Tuscan “Contessa Eletta” was absolutely fabulous. Hector dabbed a little of the vinegar on Carrie’s hand to taste. Wow! We could have spent hours there, but alas…Hector needed to go to church with his wife (we saw them at the pizzeria later in the evening).

Conversation with Steph and Leon, a couple from Colorado on their second stay at Podere Torre, as more rain clouds rolled over the distant hills.

Chorus of birds signing in the early morning.

Learning a lot about Italian wine and EU organic production. Carrie just started reading “The Girl Who Plays With Fire.” I’m plowing through “The Traveler’s History of Italy.” Of course, there is always the Lonely Planet.

Wine glass reflecting the dim candlelight as I near the end of this entry...

Heading south towards Siena in our drop-top Fiat convertible (total fluke) en route Spannochia.

Ciao!

From Rome to Chianti-June 2 & 3

Some days just have a way of working themselves out. No planning needed. It’s about 12:30am. I seriously can’t hear a sound. Just me, a dim lamp and half-finished bottle of wine…straight from the grapes of the villa we are staying at. I’ll circle back to that in a moment.

Day two of Rome was all about “The Vatican” …da-da-daaaa. Four marathon hours of breathtaking artwork commissioned or stolen in the name of Truth (I slightly jest). Those Catholics really know how to make a buck! There were no fewer than a dozen gift shops throughout the Vatican Museum, many of which were smack dab in the middle of the most precious pieces of art that will every be created…but I digress.

We had numerous favorites throughout the tour. We both really enjoyed the Carte Geografiche (Map Room) showcasing extremely large, detailed paintings of Italian maps from various perspectives. The most fascinating stories behind the pieces were told in the Raphael Rooms (4 rooms commissioned by the Pope where Raphael painted various scenes depicting faith, truth and triumph). The tapestry room was also quite stunning.

Around hour three, we finally made it to the Sistine Chapel. As we entered, you could feel the old, cool, dark air wash over you. It’s a pretty humbling experience. The crowds were massive and an ironically demonic booming baritone “SILENCE” bellowed from the anxious security guards really detracted from the awesome artwork surrounding us. But we chose to ignore and took it all in. Michelangelo’s nine frescos on the chapel’s ceiling were truly breathtaking.

Our brains melted and our eyesight blurry, we headed back to the city center. We dipped into a cute, street-side trattoria for a rejuvenating late afternoon lunch, and then headed back to the Vatican in an attempt to see St. Peter’s Bascilla…in the end, shunned by the lengthy lines.

After another successful gelato stop, we strolled back to the hotel remarking on the massiveclean-up in progress (June 2^nd is Italy’s “Republic Day,” so there was a day-long parade down the main thruway).

Dinner at Da Lucia in Travesere. Oh my, I have not had fresh parmesan until that night. A tasty meal with a carafe of house wine finished with a scrumptious chocolate mousse and laced throughout with chill conversation. We sauntered around the neighborhood for a while and headed back to the party scene around our hotel.

So, back to the lamp, wine and silence. Today (Friday), we attempted to leave Rome and make our leisurely way to Greve in Chianti, just outside of Florence. It ended up being one of those Charrie kind of days…full of miscommunication, blunders and a great deal of running with luggage (they should make

a sign discouraging that). We missed our first train, couldn’t book a car to get to Greve…in desperation, hopped a bus to the nearest stop where the villa owner, Cecilia, graciously picked us up. But by days end, we found ourselves looking over Chianti, giggling, smooching and sipping wine…in no particular order. Thanks to a brilliant recommendation, we find ourselves cozied up at the Podere Torre Azienda, tucked away amidst the narrow, winding dirt roads 3km north of Greve in Chianti. It’s a working vineyard and olive grove with two old, stone buildings and three dogs. Cecilia is adorable and taking very good care of us. She booked us reservations at a primo restaurant, Villa Bordoni, where they make their own olive oil. A very intimate (14 person) dinning experience. We had asparagus drizzled with a buffalo cheese sauce, followed by a gnocchi with wild mushrooms and fresh herbs and a roasted chicken with a wild mushroom baste. A decedent dessert followed…chocolate mouse between two crispy macaroon wafers, finished with a dollop of coffee crème. Consider ourselves pinched.

Alright. Must sleep. Tomorrow…err, today (Saturday), I head back to Florence to get the car. We’ll hang at the villa, take some walks and explore…ready ourselves for two full days of vineyard exploration and wine chuggin’…I mean sipping. PS: Big vote coming up next week that will again test Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi's power here in Italy. This one on whether or not Italy should build new nuclear reactors. Like other European countries, many are phasing this junk out.

Charrie