“Island of the Lilly”

Wrapping up a sassy-successful voyage. After nearly three weeks, we’ve been able to better absorb and reflect. Funny thing…you tend to idealize coming to a place like Italy. And trust us, there is certainly a hella idyllic scene here. However, you also start to see the raw, real aspects of an old, genuine, diverse and struggling culture. Italy does not solely exhibit the fantasy, Hollywood version of itself (although, that fantasy does certainly play itself out), rather, you take notice of the challenges people face, the struggle between growth and tradition and the unflinching similarities to what other nations and communities are experiencing. At some point, we began seeing more of the similarities than the differences…the aspects that make us all global citizens in the same struggle…in the same party.

Isola del Giglio (“Island of the Lilly”) was our final, full stop of the trek. An outrageously superb recommendation by a friend, that offered us an opportunity to escape the crowds and kick back before we head back. Giglio is a small, relatively isolated island off the coast of Tuscany. Outstanding swimming, loads of quiet roads and trails to hike and amazingly quaint villages. We shacked up at a Gioia Apartamenti run by Maria and her hubby. Newly build, beautiful and ideally located in Porto Giglio. We had small studio apartment on the basement level that was perfect (the upper levels had large patios and outdoor BBQ’s…perfect for a family getaway). Our first night, we grabbed dinner at a hopping seafood joint called Restorante La Margherita. Giglio was a place where Italian tourist went, so very little English was spoken. We just went with it and had a great time struggling through conversations. It was actually refreshing and really enjoyable. Had a great locally produced white wine, spaghetti, Carrie tried an unknown, freshly caught fish and we topped it off with a sweet grappa.

We spent the next two days hiking, exploring and finding the perfect rock to lounge on and swim off of. The water was crystal clear, refreshing and totally romantic. We ventured up an old trail to Giglio Castello, a bustling village that truly did feel like old Italy…children scurrying around the tiny streets, older Italians on benches conversing and gossiping, shop owners tweaking their displays in preparation for the day’s visitors…café owners setting up tables. We found an art and jewelry shop that had some amazing handmade pieces. Central Porto Giglio had scores of shops, restaurants and cafés all with ample opportunities to sit and people watch as boats drifted in. Two nights in a row we ordered scrumptious take out pizza from L’Angolo Di Napoli. Our last full day, we scrambled down some rocks and found a little nook on the corner of a small cove…perfect for lounging and swimming. Spent the whole d

ay there, read, napped and swam. That evening we, grabbed a couple of glasses at Pierina Bar and watched the sun set over the cliff. Giglio also provided the best gelato in Italy. Yep, Bar Fausto…well, maybe tied with the place in Greve. But Oh My Snap, Fausto had some tasty cream.

Our Italian sojourn concluded with one last afternoon/evening in Rome. We bodysurfed the massive crowds to quickly peer in the Pantheon, watched the sun set on the Spanish Steps and grabbed a wicked late dinner at Ditirambo. Yeah, we couldn’t resist. Our first dinner in Italy was so memorable, we needed a repeat. And it did not disappoint. We ended up having the same dishes (Carrie had a fresh ravioli and I had a vegetable lasagna drizzled with a light cheese sauce). Had a stellar bottle of Tenete Silvio Nardi, 2005 Brunello. Sublime way to sign off.

The next day we flew to Dublin for a quick, 22-hour layover and visit. Hung out with Carrie’s stepbrother Charlie who graciously took us on a long walking tour of the city…through Trinity College, past the capitol…long stop at Butler’s Chocolate Café. We ended up at the Ferryman’s for a drink.

It’s difficult to comprehend that we just experienced all this. We are two grateful souls. A seriously funky thank you to our friends and fam for the crazy perfect recommendations…most of which shaped our very successful trip. And most certainly, thank you to our co-workers, whom shouldered the added load.

Fino alla volta prossima…

Charrie

Dialogue as we strolled down a hill in Giglio. Chad: “You are what you eat Carrie.” Carrie: “Well, I have no problems being gelato.”

When a Stroll Becomes a Hike

Before I delve into our killer time in Cinque Terre, I must give a loud and totally unhinged, jump-up-jump-up-say-YEAH! Congrats to Mr. H.B. Clausen and Liz Laur. That’s right kids; they’re gettin’ hitched. We can’t wait until the party yo. Seriously, congrats you two!

“I proposed while she was befuzzled.” Brian

With the dark days of travel behind us (i.e. driving), we jumped on the train and headed northwest towards the coast. Cinque Terre (I love the fact that Wikipedia’s description includes: “Part of its charm is the lack of visible corporate development.”) is a group of five ancient towns, the first and last are only 12 km apart. Each town is literally on a cliff, perched over the sea and are all connected by an old, narrow trail. We bunked up at B&B L’Eremo sul Mare, a 20-minute walk up the trail from Vernazza. Seriously, you have to hike up to the place. We were both breathlessly begging for our backpacks at that point, instead of the luggage with wheels nonsense we had. To put it bluntly: We weren’t weelin’ shit that afternoon. All that said, the hike up was o-so-worth it. We were gleefully met by Heda, a sweet, boisterous woman that runs L’Eremo. The place had a large patio overlooking the sea and surrounded by trees. One thing is for sure; we severely lucked out on places to stay during our trek.

We met a younger couple from Australia on their honeymoon and had a good chat. We effortlessly bounced back down the hillside back to Vernazza. All the buildings were brightly painted and haphazardly stacked; yet somehow it felt intentional. The harbor was small and adorned with shops and small cafés. The first thing we noticed as we came into town was the young, beach-town vibe going on. Many people dawning bikinis and flipity-flops. We ate at a random pizzeria with a view and headed back early. Ended up cracking open a bottle and hanging out with the Aussy couple and an older Kiwi couple on the patio until after midnight. Had a fascinating, meandering conversation about travel (do you stick to the travel guide or just have at it?) then onto cultural differences and grazed some hot-button political issues. We love meeting other travelers.

The best way to describe the area is thru pictures. The land is stunning. The water is peaceful and a brilliant blue...it melts with the sky. Our first full day we hiked southwest toward the southern most village, Riomaggiore. The climb was challenging. It was sunny and hot with only an occasional breeze. The flow wasn’t too busy, so we were able to actually hike rather than shuffle (the trail is known to get wicked busy during the touristy times). The vistas were spectacular. I took way too many photos, proven by shrinking space on my hard drive. It took 90 minutes to reach the first village, Corniglia. Picture perfect with tiny, meandering pedestrian streets. We took some pics, bought some fruit and walked down, way down to a small cove. Our first Mediterranean dip. Scrambled up a rock and dove in. Just laid around for an hour or so.

From Corniglia, we went up. Nearly 600 meters up. We must have picked the right time of day (early afternoon and wicked hot), because we saw very few people. The vegetation changed quickly. We went in and out of lush forest, passing stretches of unbelievable, terraced vineyards…reachable only by foot and a steep cart-pulley system. The infrequent breeze was greatly appreciated. We stopped a lot, took copious amounts of pictures and just soaked it all up. By far the most enjoyable stretch of the whole trail.

The trek down to the next village, Manarola, was just as steep. Brutal on my old man knees. By then, it was late afternoon. Warm and pleasant. We strolled through town, checked out the village center swimming-hole (the village essentially encircled the rocks and swimming area) and found a cozy little paninoteca/bar/gelateria. It’s killing me that I can’t remember the name of the place…immediately at the end of the main street, just before the swimming hole on the left-hand side. They served up homemade sandwiches, ice cream and their very own white wine. We tried a chocolate sundae complete with fresh wafers. Delish.

Good and drowsy, we strolled the last 15 minutes to Riomaggiore, connected by a flat, scenic path called “Via Dell'Amore.” The train station in town houses a fascinating mural of local farmers and workers. Hopped the train home and strolled into an outdoor bar overlooking Vernazza halfway up the trail to our pad. The crew was half-blitzed and thumping a mix-tape rocking WAR and Blink-182. Hilarious. Bounced home and took advantage of the patio overlooking the sea. Read, caught up on work and enjoyed another moonlit night.

The next day we hiked northeast toward the last of the five villages, Monterosso with the intention of carving out some beach time. The trail was pretty smooth, but packed. Absolutely packed. We shuffled most of the time. Peered over the edge of some pretty unbelievable cliffs. Hard to imagine theses trails are still handling the foot traffic. With the overcast weather and the ultra touristy beaches looking not so enticing, we scrapped beach time and opted instead for a leisurely stroll through town. A lot going on in Monterosso. Tons of small shops, cafés and restaurants. We found a place serving up fresh focaccias, got a half bottle and enjoyed the afternoon. Took the train back to Vernazza early and hung out at the B&B until late evening.

We capped the 3-night stay with a refreshing, simple dinner at Incadase da Piva (thanks James!), bottle of tasty Chianti, fresh bread and pesto with delicious gnocchi and trenette pasta. Rich, almost pudding-like tiramisu to top it off. Super friendly service and a jovial gentleman (owner?) keeping close watch on the scene.

Bounced, strolled and found an edgy art gallery, Bottega d’Arte Cinqueterre, run by a peppy, charismatic guy named Antonio. Absolutely loved his work…savage, raw, funny and rich. He had a catty laugh and was genuinely charming. So much spunky, fresh artwork. Fell in love with an original that spanked us good and sassy-like…a raw, Ralph Steadmanesque rendering of Vernazza. Couldn’t resist and proceeded to buy it. One of those moments and interactions when you pinch yourself and ask “Did that really happen?” Phenomenal way to end our Cinque stay.

On to Isola del Giglio for our last full stop.

A presto!

Chad

Go With The Flo

Playing catch-up. We scratched and clawed our way in to Florence more than a week ago now. Thank Raphael we have over 1700 photos to tweak our memories. After reluctantly departing Siena, we wandered and weaved through Tuscany one last time. Stopped in San Gimignano, a busy, scenic and lively village northwest of Siena. Roamed through the Archeological Museum and hiked up the bell tower…providing another sweeping view of the Tuscan landscape. After a full day of historic works the previous day…and all the days previous, we yearned for something modern and found the Museum of Modern Art, which (ironically enough) had a new photo exhibit of old, historic buildings from around the area. Ha! It did house, however, an eclectic and at times perverted exhibit of Giannetto Fieschi. Strolled around the village streets coming across not one, but TWO torture museums. Reminded us of something we would find in the WI Dells. Met a German-born street artist named Kani. Loved his work and bought a couple of pieces. By mid afternoon a troupe of three street musicians began playing folk/jazz/gypsy tunes…haunting, sweet and sublime. Her voice was smoky and deep. We watched for a little while and found a café around the corner. Had a couple of tasty panini’s, a little wine and just took in the pleasantly warm sun as the street music soared.

Arrived in Florence frantically attempting to understand the city layout. Got crazy lost. Gave up, left the car crashed up on a curb and split. No, but the idea crossed our minds. Made it to our sweeeeet apartment (Residenza Il Carmine), thanks to a great recommendation by Marty and Frank…1 block off of Ponte Vecchio, built in 1345 and is the only bridge to make it through WWII German bombings.

We packed our first full day with museum visits starting at the Galleria dell ‘Accademia, which houses Michelangelo’s “David.” Granted, it is an obscenely hyped piece of artwork, but rightfully so. You turn the corner and are immediately struck by the awesome artistic feat. The stature was constructed from a single piece of marble, a piece twice refused by other sculptures because of its supposed inferiority. Michelangelo was only 29 when he sculpted David. It generated good discussion about the perception of idealistic physical beauty. We also really enjoyed the room of music, which housed numerous Renaissance-era instruments.

We roamed the plazas and recharged for a while, trying to make our own art and found a damn good deli called Ino serving up wicked fresh sandwiches that included a solid glass of wine. We then strolled by the outrageously long lines and popped into the Galleria degli Uffizi (“Uffizi”). Wow, did we ever appreciate making reservations for the museums. If you every go, make reservations for all the major ones…everywhere in Italy. We talked to some travelers that waited 2-3 hours in line. The Uffizi was created by the Medici family and originally built to house the administrative offices. It soon became “Italy’s National Gallery” and houses a massive amount of art, ranging from Greek sculptures to Enlightenment era paintings. We really enjoyed the Botticelli rooms, especially “The Birth of Venus” and “Primavera.” The seemingly endless corridors housed hundreds of busts and portraits. Also, somewhat hidden on the first floor, we took in pieces by Caravaggio and Artemisia Gentileschi, which included “Medusa” and “Judith Slaying Holoferness,” respectfully. Enjoyed a coffee on the museum roof before taking off. And that recaps about 4 straight hours of solid museum madness. We strolled around town for a while, gawking at the wild fashion shops and unsuccessfully dodging thongs of tourists. We stayed in that night and cooked a homemade risotto with a bottle of the “Cont

essa Eletta” from Pian del Giallo. Watched a little Naked Gun 2 ½ in Italian “Frank, se state andando essere soffiato ai bit, voglio essere qui con voi.”

Woke up early the next day and roamed around the sprawling Museo degli Argenti, which included a costume museum and a fascinating porcelain museum that had some amazingly intricate pieces. We took advantage of another beautifully warm day and then walked around the huge garden to the rear of the main building. No shortage of walking this trip. We earned our daily pasta/pizza and gelato fix.

We ate in again that night and went out late for dessert and coffee at Caffe Concerto Paszkowski, on the edge of Piazza della Republica. Amazing coffee drinks, fresh mojitos and the best Tiramisu we’ve had. The waiters were all in black ties and the live music catered to the tourist in all of us…their version James Brown’s “Sex Machine” was actually really good. Took the long way home and enjoyed the plethora of street artists creating until the wee hours. Got home and immediately crashed.

“This room is a thousand years old” Gillian, Tour guide at Castello di Verrazzano.

The next morn we decided to split. Yep, it’s been quite the ride, but that’s it. Time to part ways. Nah…but traveling for two weeks with the same person…I’m just saying. So, I decided to get my bike fix and Carrie dove a little deeper into the city life. After some considerable searching (The Lonely Planet bible steered me wrong!), I rented a bike from the extremely friendly and helpful Bike Florence,

hopped on and proceeded to get very lost through the chaotic and unruly Florentine streets. Back ontrack, I headed south through the Chianti Classico region one last time…for reals...I swear! I love biking through the countryside. Totally different experience…the smells, sounds and sights all seem more vibrant. I was able to go through some small towns we missed during our drives. A lot of silly uphills (in comparison to WI or VT), but not as difficult as I would have thought (I thought too soon). Cruised through Imperiale, a sleepy town with a panoramic view on 3 sides. Stopped in Impruneta for a quick lunch at a small deli. Bizarrely enough, it poured for a short bit while I was eating…perfect weather the rest of the day. I then climbed and dipped, passing hillside vineyards and castles along the way. Traffic was light and the roads were, for the most part, peaceful. For whatever reason, I had Superdrag’s “Keep it Close to Me” in my head all day. Made it back to Greve in Chianti by early afternoon and decided to do one last wine tasting and tour at the Castello di Verrazzano. At that point, I experienced the nutty Tuscan ups. Most difficult hill I ever had to climb on bike. A carful of tour-goers drove by and thought I was absolutely nutz…they later told me during the tasting. By far the most magnificent vineyard and grounds we visited. Gillian, the guide was charming, funny and had a great grasp of history. She talked for a while about Giovanni di Verrazano, who discovered the NYC harbor and parts of the east coast. She also repeatedly teased me for mysteriously flying solo on the wine tour. The walk and tour of the cellars and smoking rooms (they also make extra virgin olive oil, 12-year old balsamic vinaigrette, and smoked meats) were fascinating and included a collection of wine bottles over 200 years old. We tasted some great Chianti Classico and Classico Reserva as well as some Vin Santo with fresh biscotti. It was late afternoon by the time the meandering tour ended. I made a B-line back to Florence and got back late, but just in time to catch up with Carrie and stroll before din.

Carrie took full advantage of a day without Chadler. She roamed the streets, walking up and down the river, Arno. Bounced in and out of some of the shops downtown. Went back to Ino for another tasty sandwich and wine. She then made her way up the crazy-long staircase up to Piazzale Michelangelo and took dozens of photos of the beautiful gardens, street artists hard at work and the tremendous panoramic view of the city…all with one of the two David replicas in the background.

Thanks to Carrie’s find, we had a great destination that evening to people watch and take in the sunset before dinner. We then headed to a place just around the corner from the apartment, Golden View Open Bar overlooking Ponte Vecchio. The place was modern, busy and had a great ambiance. Carrie looked dreamy…candle casting a romantic reflection on the window with a view. Savored fresh Trenette pasta and another great bottle of Chianti Classico from Castello di Rossi. Couldn’t be any more romantic than that. Still pinching…

From Siena to the Sea

We just watched a pretty stunning lunar eclipse. Early morn now…basking in the majestic glow as the moonlight ripples. It’s still. Barley any sound except some distant, chirping creature and the faint lapping of the waves, 500 meters below. We arrived in Vernazza this afternoon. Part of the Cinque Terre, five ancient towns outrageously nestled alongside the dramatic, jagged Ligurian coast in Northwest Italy. 8 days left. We’re on the latter half of the trek now.

We last left off in route to Siena. We loved Siena. Siena was spunky yet still quaint…historic, trendy and with the right balance of tourist magnet and local charm. Leaving aside the messy traffic coming in and the standard sprawl along the outskirts, Siena was a rad two-day stop. Carrie and I were both unprepared for the nip. It was cold yo. I’m talking the Italians are wearing coats and scarves kind of cold. But, we kept warm by walking, a lot, and commencing our 4-day museum blitz. Our first night we ate at a romantic little nook called Antica Osteria da Divo. Exposed stone walls, candlelight and an exceptional gnocchi. We strolled the city streets, which somehow always led you to where you needed to go. Siena was our first stop where we really noticed the fashion. The friggin’ shoes people were wearing?!! Seriously, it is absolutely impossible to walk on these cobblestone streets in high heels. Not possible.

The next day was all about history, art and architecture. We got rolling early, grabbed some eats at the next-door paneria and bought the “Opa Si Pass” (a very worthwhile purchased that got us in to several museums and sights). We started with the city panorama, with the Duomo to our backs and the seemingly haphazard and old city encircling us. The climb up was dizzying, but once atop, we had the entire city at our fingertips. It was early enough for us to take our time and take it all in.

We then hit up the city museum, which housed some of the most brilliant sculptures we’ve seen thus far. Many of which were originally affixed to the Duomo next door. A fine example of Sienese artistry. Hungry for more, we scampered straight over to the Cattedrale and Duomo. Wow! I mean, wow! The intricacy, splendor and grandeur of the artwork are truly breathtaking. We spent a good 90 minutes roaming,

with an audio guide glued to our ears taking in the history behind each piece of work, thanks to the voice of a jovial Brit colorfully exclaiming each story as quickly as possible.

Completely overwhelmed, we slowly made our way to the Battistero, Cripta and Oratorio to take in more portraits of Jesus being crucified. At some point, we asked ourselves “how many times can renaissance artists be asked to recreate Jesus being tortured?"

It becomes absolutely overwhelming. Fried and jam-packed with visions of sweet baby Jesus and Mary, we napped, readying ourselves for a massive dinner, as we’ve come to expect. Bundled up, we strolled around town, taking in the numerous steep, winding roads and breathtaking architecture. We ended up at Il Carroccio, a quaint, Slow Foods trattori serving up a delish risotto and pesto gnocchi. After din-din, we trolled around ending up at what we think was Sienna College and watched pirates serve up food and drinks to spunky co-eds and not to mention the most bizarre mix of American and Italian music I could possibly imagine. (CCR was somewhere in there).

Thanks to everyone who recommended we spend time in Siena. Crazy enjoyable! Florence, Cinque Terre and Isola del Giglio to come as we wrap up the trek.

Ciao!

Charrie

Berlusconi Gets Spanked

Exciting times to be in Italy. On Monday, a crucial national vote gave the irreverent Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi a major spanking. Italians came out to stop water privitization, hold public officials (mainly

Berlusconi) accountable for illegal activities and squelched plans to build new nuclear power plants. Here are some pics of what we saw the night before the vote in Siena. Check out the NYT article. Pretty much says it all: "Italian Voters

Out to Overturn Laws and Deliver a Rebuke on Berlusconi"

Siena and Florence updates soon!

Charrie

Castles and Wine

At present I’m slouched in a comfy chair at the La Perla Hotel in Siena, one block off Piazza del Campo. The Internet doesn’t work in our room, an oddly shaped, stinky (sorry Lonely Planet, but “musty” doesn’t go far enough…this warrents stank) nook on the top floor overlooking both the Duomo and the Basilica dei Servi. It’s late…not to uncommon for travel scribing. The local college boys are roaming the streets proudly belting their fraternity songs and what not…I think school just got out.

We’ve reemerged from a rejuvenating, active and peaceful three days at Tenuta di Spannocchia, just outside of Rosia in Tuscany. Big props to Scott for hooking us up. Spannocchia is an 1100 acre nature reserve, working organic farm/vineyard/olive grove, educational and historical center originally built in the late 12^th century. It is what remains from the share-cropping system that, surprisingly, lasted until the 1950’s in Italy. Our room was in the main building and allowed us to spread out in style.

The days were full of morning jogs, long walks through the adventurous trails, swimming and exploring. The landscape looked quite a lot like Vermont…minus the vineyards, cypress trees and castles. On Tuesday, we did a three-hour, round trip hike up to the “Castiglion che Dio sol sa,” (“Castle that only God knows”) and spent some time exploring a 13^th century castle. Every night at 7pm, all the guest, interns (there are 8 working this summer and a couple of WOOFers) and program participants (there was a group of PhD art-philosophy students there for 5 weeks) met for wine and casual conversation. At 7:30pm sharp, dinner was served, usually lasting 2-3 hours. The food was phenomenal (risotto, veggies, and Wednesday night brick-oven pizza night!)…all the wine was produced on site and is certified organic. Bizarrely enough, yet not too surprising, we met several people with Vermont and Western Mass roots…waxed Vermont Yankee if you can believe it. A crew of interns was either from VT or went to school in VT. We also met and had a fab time hanging out with Suzanna, a farmer from Shelburne, MA spending time at Spannochia to seek inspiration. On our final day, Randall (one of the owners) gave us an historical tour of the grounds. All told, Spannochia was a very cool and unique Italian experience.

On Thursday, we jumped back in the car and took the round-a-bout road to Montalcino, home of the famed Brunello wine…round-a-bout is no joke…we were on dirt roads most of the time. We tooled around the very quaint, but uber ritzy village and soaked it in. We scaled the Fortress to get a 360 degree view of

the area including some of the village’s stunning architecture. We had lunch on the front patio of Enoteca Osteria Osticcio where I had by far the best glass of the trip…a 2004 Brunello from Il Paradiso di Manfredi. Carrie had a very tasty Spumante Italiano from San Crisioforo. After a fun little tasting of more Brunello, we trekked around the village to take in some of the architecture and vistas provided by the hilltop location.

The drives throughout Tuscany have been absolutely breathtaking…rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves, farms and cypress trees. We made two more stops at vineyards in Chianti. The first was at il Molino di Grace, where we really enjoyed their 2006 Chianti Classico. The artwork was weird, but in a fun way. For lunch, we came upon a quaint little village named Radda in Chianti. Had an awesome bruschetta (one of the best thus far) at La Bottega di giovannino finished off with a tasty macchiato and mimosa. Took a lot of great photos here. Finally, we finished off our Chianti vineyard tour at a small place just outside of Costellina in Chianti. La Croce was a small operation. Had a solid Super Tuscan and a great 2006 Chianti Classico Reserva.

We did hit some unexpected turbulence in Siena, not expecting a large, sprawling city, but thank Jasper for roundabouts. They saved our butts on countless occasions…we may have enjoyed them a little too much.

We’ll catch up on Sienna the next go around.

Parma-Olive-Vine Goodbyes,

PS: Favorite quotes so far:

“Americans are always crying and running. Italians laugh and walk.” (Italian woman retold by a 21 year old from Brooklyn)

“How do pregnant women not drink? With all this wine??!” (Carrie)

“I got high once in VT.” (Random Canandian dude after introductions)

Charrie

Random Chianti Moments-June 5

Cecilia’s big smile and gentle greeting at the bus stop.

The first sip of wine as we looked over the valley upon arrival at the villa.

Rocky and Luna (Cecilia’s dogs) in search for some attention (countless moments).

The warm, early morning walk from the villa to the bus stop along the winding, dusty road en route to Florence to pick up the car…felt like Michael Corleone on his Italian pilgrimage morphed with the memory of hitchhiking in Chili (see “Chili with Staggering Velocity!”).

Our conversation and tasting with Alfredo Correani and his wife at Lorenzo’s (named after Alfredo's son), a tiny vineyard just down the road. Alfredo paints all of the wine bottle labels and had just finished painting a wall inside the cellar when we arrived. He spoke broken English, we spoke no Italian, but between the non-verbals and a little Spanish, we had one of the most sincere and cheerful conversations in recent memory…he jubilantly told us about his upcoming exhibit in Florence. Bought a bottle of Chianti Classico and a small bottle of fresh olive oil.

Serving ourselves at Le Cantine…tried our first Brunello.

Early afternoon plucking of cherries.

Curl up in the hammock, cocoon style.

Early morning breakfast in the small courtyard outside our door…fresh fruit, pastries, jam, yogurt, strong Italian coffee and the creamiest butter we’ve ever had.

Our sserendipitous tasting at Pian del Gallo, an organic vineyard and farm on the outskirts of Greve en Chianti. It was pouring rain and near the end of the day. After a short, bumpy ride, we scampered to the front entrance. “Closed.” We then knocked on the door of the residence…waited and headed back to the car. Just before driving off, Hector, the owner comes out with umbrella in hand and welcomes us in. He then spends the next 60 minutes sharing his family’s food, wine and stories. By far, the most genuine, passionate and interesting wine tasting experience we’ve ever had. As soon as he saw our interest in wine and organic farming, he lit up and gave impassioned and descriptive responses to our rapid-fire questions…His homemade sundried tomatoes were unbelievable. We tried 5 wines and their 25 year balsamic vinegar. Their 2008 Super Tuscan “Contessa Eletta” was absolutely fabulous. Hector dabbed a little of the vinegar on Carrie’s hand to taste. Wow! We could have spent hours there, but alas…Hector needed to go to church with his wife (we saw them at the pizzeria later in the evening).

Conversation with Steph and Leon, a couple from Colorado on their second stay at Podere Torre, as more rain clouds rolled over the distant hills.

Chorus of birds signing in the early morning.

Learning a lot about Italian wine and EU organic production. Carrie just started reading “The Girl Who Plays With Fire.” I’m plowing through “The Traveler’s History of Italy.” Of course, there is always the Lonely Planet.

Wine glass reflecting the dim candlelight as I near the end of this entry...

Heading south towards Siena in our drop-top Fiat convertible (total fluke) en route Spannochia.

Ciao!

From Rome to Chianti-June 2 & 3

Some days just have a way of working themselves out. No planning needed. It’s about 12:30am. I seriously can’t hear a sound. Just me, a dim lamp and half-finished bottle of wine…straight from the grapes of the villa we are staying at. I’ll circle back to that in a moment.

Day two of Rome was all about “The Vatican” …da-da-daaaa. Four marathon hours of breathtaking artwork commissioned or stolen in the name of Truth (I slightly jest). Those Catholics really know how to make a buck! There were no fewer than a dozen gift shops throughout the Vatican Museum, many of which were smack dab in the middle of the most precious pieces of art that will every be created…but I digress.

We had numerous favorites throughout the tour. We both really enjoyed the Carte Geografiche (Map Room) showcasing extremely large, detailed paintings of Italian maps from various perspectives. The most fascinating stories behind the pieces were told in the Raphael Rooms (4 rooms commissioned by the Pope where Raphael painted various scenes depicting faith, truth and triumph). The tapestry room was also quite stunning.

Around hour three, we finally made it to the Sistine Chapel. As we entered, you could feel the old, cool, dark air wash over you. It’s a pretty humbling experience. The crowds were massive and an ironically demonic booming baritone “SILENCE” bellowed from the anxious security guards really detracted from the awesome artwork surrounding us. But we chose to ignore and took it all in. Michelangelo’s nine frescos on the chapel’s ceiling were truly breathtaking.

Our brains melted and our eyesight blurry, we headed back to the city center. We dipped into a cute, street-side trattoria for a rejuvenating late afternoon lunch, and then headed back to the Vatican in an attempt to see St. Peter’s Bascilla…in the end, shunned by the lengthy lines.

After another successful gelato stop, we strolled back to the hotel remarking on the massiveclean-up in progress (June 2^nd is Italy’s “Republic Day,” so there was a day-long parade down the main thruway).

Dinner at Da Lucia in Travesere. Oh my, I have not had fresh parmesan until that night. A tasty meal with a carafe of house wine finished with a scrumptious chocolate mousse and laced throughout with chill conversation. We sauntered around the neighborhood for a while and headed back to the party scene around our hotel.

So, back to the lamp, wine and silence. Today (Friday), we attempted to leave Rome and make our leisurely way to Greve in Chianti, just outside of Florence. It ended up being one of those Charrie kind of days…full of miscommunication, blunders and a great deal of running with luggage (they should make

a sign discouraging that). We missed our first train, couldn’t book a car to get to Greve…in desperation, hopped a bus to the nearest stop where the villa owner, Cecilia, graciously picked us up. But by days end, we found ourselves looking over Chianti, giggling, smooching and sipping wine…in no particular order. Thanks to a brilliant recommendation, we find ourselves cozied up at the Podere Torre Azienda, tucked away amidst the narrow, winding dirt roads 3km north of Greve in Chianti. It’s a working vineyard and olive grove with two old, stone buildings and three dogs. Cecilia is adorable and taking very good care of us. She booked us reservations at a primo restaurant, Villa Bordoni, where they make their own olive oil. A very intimate (14 person) dinning experience. We had asparagus drizzled with a buffalo cheese sauce, followed by a gnocchi with wild mushrooms and fresh herbs and a roasted chicken with a wild mushroom baste. A decedent dessert followed…chocolate mouse between two crispy macaroon wafers, finished with a dollop of coffee crème. Consider ourselves pinched.

Alright. Must sleep. Tomorrow…err, today (Saturday), I head back to Florence to get the car. We’ll hang at the villa, take some walks and explore…ready ourselves for two full days of vineyard exploration and wine chuggin’…I mean sipping. PS: Big vote coming up next week that will again test Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi's power here in Italy. This one on whether or not Italy should build new nuclear reactors. Like other European countries, many are phasing this junk out.

Charrie

Italia-June 1

Charrie is back in full effect. Ahhhh-yeah. It’s on, Italia style. 1:30 am. Carrie just fell asleep. We’ve been rockin’ for 34 hours. Room is comfy as hell. Street party is humming outside. It’s all good.

Crashing at the 2^nd Floor Hotel in Rome…a few short steps away from the Colosseum. It was a total “buck up little camper” kind of day. Planes, trains and it all started out in Natalie’s Subaru.

I have to admit, this is the first time I can recall being absolutely overwhelmed with the staggering sightseeing options before us. We may just wing this whole thing. After a quick lunch and chug-chug double espresso,

we took the inn keeper’s advice and did up the Colosseum, late afternoon style. Two words, “Roma Pass!” Damn…that was worth every 25 € we threw down. Sped by the hour plus line in about a minute. That allowed us to spend two full hours circling the truly impressive house of mayhem. Seriously, what a gruesome idear. Fascinating history in terms of it’s construction, the politics of carnage and the elaborate thought that went into the seriously warped “games” that took place during the “holidays.”Favorite moment during the tour…placing our hands on the sun soaked stone and marble that is nearly two millennia old. Felt surprisingly smooth. Pop, this photos is for you.

Laid out the map and decided to squeeze every drip-drop of adrenaline in order to make a full day out of it. We decimated dinner by starting out with our first true-blue gelato at "Flor." The Romans know how to do gelato yo. Carrie had a double helping of chocolate and strawberry. I opted for the extra creamy vanilla and double chocolate. Next, we wandered and weaved our way through the labyrinthine Roman streets…up through the capitol area and down through what is still called the “Jewish Ghetto” We made our way to an amazing find for wine and a fresh, organic dinner at Ditirambo. An absolutely fabulous bottle of biodynamic 2006 Vendemmia-Sanvalentino from Umbria coupled with freshly made ravioli and lasagna…finished with a fresh strawberry-yogurt dessert…ok, then finished off with an espresso. Yeah, that’s it. We sauntered through Piazza di Navona where the kids and artists where out in full force.

On a completely unrelated note, I think the stewardess on Aer Lingus flight # 136 scolded me for attempting to snag her serving tray. I say “think” because she was quite cheerful as she scolded me.

On a mission to reserve two train tickets to Florence so we can start our two-week Tuscan swing. Today (Thursday), we take on the Vatican and look for some great food in Treverse. Ciao bella!

Charrie